Christmas Waves in Nicaragua
This was, hands down, my favorite Christmas ever. Most of you guys know I don't really care about the holiday, I just didn't grow up with it. But this day was magic.
I was surfing more than I ever have, often three times a day. Conquering my fears with solo travel in Nicaragua, a place I've always felt drawn to. Throwing myself into bigger waves and getting smashed and doing it again and loving it. Making new friends from all over the world, and realizing that there's all different kinds of soulmates, people who will understand and accept and share and love without question. And living in the present moment, instead of the past with depression or the future with anxiety.
This was Christmas day, and the swell was big and perfect (one friend said it was 10ft, I have no idea!!!) and glassy, so we all charged it, practically frothing with surf stoke and total joy. And the freaking sunset lasted so long, the whole surface of the ocean was shimmering pink... and these big birds I forget the name of but they're famous in Nica for flying in a V formation close as fuck to the water, I mean they just zoom by so fast and graceful, picking up speed from the surface. They were gliding all over the place. Afterwards we got out of the water, took this pic, then climbed up the hill to a little beach shack bar and drank beer. I was so excited and happy and high on life I remember I was kind of dancing in place the whole time we stood there drinking our beers, I couldn't help it.
So that was my best Dec 25th ever and I wanted to share the good memory
To all my other friends and family, love you and hope you're all having a beautiful end of year! 🌈🎉